Factors that impact Roofing Price
The type of roof you want will have a big impact on the cost of your roof replacement. There are a variety of different types of roofs for you to choose from based on your budget and the look you want.
If you’re on a tight budget and looking for an affordable roof, an asphalt shingle roof might be right for you. But if you’re looking to upgrade to a longer lasting and sharp looking roof, there’s the standing seam metal roof.
Asphalt and metal are two of the most seen roof types, but there are also premium shingle roofs that come at a premium price. These roofs give you a unique look that really stands out. These premium roofs include cedar shake, slate, and tile.
The premium shingle roofs can get expensive quickly and be more than triple the cost of an asphalt shingle roof.
The operating cost of your roofing contractor
Every roofing contractor has operating expenses to keep their business going. These operating costs will always factor into the price of any roof work that needs to be done.
Some common operating costs are:
• Building cost and utilities, shop, and truck yard
• Advertising and promotions
• Vehicles (fuel and insurance)
• General liability insurance
• Workers compensation insurance
• Licenses and bonds
• Payroll and payroll taxes
• Taxes (Federal and local government)
These are just some of the fixed operating costs that it takes to run a business. No matter if a roofing company does a simple repair or replaces 10 roofs, these are the costs that have to be paid every day. No matter what work you get done or what service you need, operating expenses will always factor into an estimate or final cost.
The labor and time to complete the job
Labor and time are two of the main factors a roofing contractor considers when calculating the price of your new roof. If anything takes time and labor, it will show up in the final cost of your roof replacement.
The labor cost of each man on a crew is based on their skill level, experience, and how much they can get done in a day. The labor cost will vary from contractor to contractor.
The time it takes to complete the job is also a factor. The more time a roofer must spend on your roof and property will always affect the price of a new roof.
If the roof is complex and hard to access, it takes longer and more labor to complete. From tearing off your old roof to cleaning up your property after the job is done, if it takes manpower and time, it’s going to impact the cost of your new roof.
There are three main types of roof valleys — cut, weaved and exposed metal. The types differ in various ways, but there are a few central characteristics that set each design apart.
Roof “valleys” are the areas on your roof where the slopes meet, forming a V angle where water usually runs off.
The roof-covering material ends several inches short of the centerline of the valley. A lining made of metal protects the valley from moisture intrusion. You may encounter defective valley lined shingles installation, failed roll-roofing valley liners, or a cross wash where water running down a roof slope flows across the valley and up beneath the shingles on the adjacent slope. Make sure your roofers install your roofing system properly to avoid these valley problems.
Your roofing system has a closed valley when shingles on one or both sides of the roof extend across the valley on the adjacent roof slope. The linings of a closed valley are not exposed to weather or impact because they’re protected by shingles. A type of closed valley is a cut valley where the shingles from the adjacent slope are cut parallel and just short of the center of the valley. A poorly cut valley is a quality issue on installation rather than a defect, so refrain from having roof replacement if you don’t see any leakage.
This is a type of closed valley where your roofing system has shingles from both roof slopes run through the adjacent slope, alternating each course. Your roofers should install it in a way that it will prevent runoff from penetrating the shingles. This should never be installed on roofs with a pitch less than 4:12.
Ridge cap shingles are specifically designed to fit the ridges of roofs. That's why they are typically pre-bent and thicker than regular roof shingles, which tend to crack when folded over the ridge. The form of the ridge cap shingles also makes them more efficient in shedding water and debris.
GAF Standard hip and ridge cap shingles are high-quality, cost-effective alternatives to cut-up 3-Tab shingles. These are available in the Z Ridge, Seal-A-Ridge, and Seal-A-Ridge Armorshield series.
Z Ridge shingles provide the look of thick wood shakes using a unique Z-fold design. Seal-A-Ridge machine cut shingles are meant to complement your roofing shingles. Seal-A-Ridge Armorshield features SBS modified ridge cap shingles provide strong protection that complements your GAF shingles.
GAF Premium hip and ridge cap shingles provide top-notch protection while adding drama to your roof. These are available in the Ridglass, Timbertex, and TimberCrest series.
Ridglass shingles have the high-profile look of wood shake with extra-thick leading edges. Timbertex shingles provide extra protection and are up to 195% thicker than regular strip shingles. TimberCrest shingles are SBS modified shingles with a distinct bullnose look thanks to a rounded edge design.
If you’re looking for the best roofing contractor that can install GAF shingles perfectly, look no further than Alpine Roofing Construction. Whether it’s an asphalt shingle roof or a metal roofing system that you need, we can help you.
There are two different types of wooden boards used on your roof: plank decking and sheet decking.
Plank decking was the main type of decking used before the invention of plywood. This type of decking is made up of elongated and rectangular wooden boards that come in two different sizes, 1x6 or 1x8.
While not as common as today, you’ll still find plank decking on older homes. But if your plank decking has a wider gap than is allowed per code (more on that later), it’ll have to be replaced.
Sheet decking (or sheathing) is exactly what it sounds like, flat sheets of wood. There are two different types of sheet decking: plywood and OSB.
OSB (oriented strand board) is the most common type of decking used on roofs today. It’s made up of wood chips/strips compressed together to form a flat 7/16” sheet.
OSB roof decking
Plywood comes in several different thicknesses (⅜”, ½”, ⅝”, and ¾”) depending on the span of the rafters. While OSB is the most common, plywood is still very much used on homes today.
Both types of sheet decking are great options, but which one you get depends on your budget and, most importantly, the availability of the wood.
Oftentimes, spending a little more money in the upfront can save homeowners a lot of money in the long run. When it comes to roofs, this preventative measure can reduce the likelihood of leaks known to cause mold, water damage and rout.
One of the most common roof leaks occurs in the plumbing vent. The plumbing vent allows air to enter the pipe, resulting in a fast and more consistent flow.
Each day, roofing companies, new home construction companies and jack-of-all-trade fixers are installing rubber neoprene pipe jacks, which carry a lifespan of five to 15 years, on roofs that typically last homeowners between 25 and 30 years. Due to extreme heat and ultra-violet ray exposure, this inferior product will fail long before your roof needs an overhaul.
Settling for a lesser product (and smaller price tag) in the beginning could lead to much larger price tags down the road. The unfortunate reality for you, the homeowner, is that contractors may want you to select that most affordable product at the start so that there’s more work for them down the road.
What Is Roofing Underlayment?
Roofing underlayment is what lies between the shingles and the roof sheathing, or roof deck, which is typically either plywood or OSB. It’s installed directly on the roof deck and provides a secondary layer of protection from the elements, including rain, snow, and wind.
Types of Roofing Underlayment
There are two main types of roofing underlayment:
Each product has its pros and cons, and the type you choose may depend on your geographical area, roofing materials used, roof design, budget and what your roofing contractor may suggest.
Felt Roofing Underlayment
Felt roofing underlayment is one of the oldest types of roofing underlayment. It’s created by saturating paper or fiberglass mat with asphalt.
Felt roofing underlayment is typically available in two types: No.15 felt and No. 30 felt. Compared to No. 15 felt, No. 30 felt is typically thicker, stronger, and may be less prone to tearing or ripping off during installation or weather events.
The main advantage of using felt roofing underlayment is cost. Felt underlayment tends to cost less compared to synthetic underlayment, which is why it’s often the go-to for budget-conscious homeowners.
There are several disadvantages to using felt underlayment on a roof. One disadvantage of traditional felt roofing underlayment is it generally can’t be left exposed for more than a few hours. The material may dry out or leach oils in the heat. This would impact the felt’s ability to protect against moisture. Other drawbacks of felt underlayment include: Prone to tearing in high winds and during the strain of installation. If exposed to moisture, the mat can absorb water and wrinkle the felt, making it harder for the shingles to lay flat. Therefore, shingles should be installed immediately after felt roofing underlayment is installed if possible to ensure optimal protection. Felt underlayment also weighs more, which can make it harder for roofing contractors to drag rolls of it up a ladder and onto a roof. It also has a slippery surface, which can sometimes make it more difficult to install. The weight also leads to less material per roll. This means more potential seams instead of a single course with no laps.
Felt Roofing Underlayment and Warranties
If felt underlayment is installed it may also prevent you from being protected under the manufacturer’s warranty, which may require synthetic underlayment.
Synthetic Roofing Underlayment
For enhanced water-resistance and protection from the elements, many roofers are choosing to go the route of synthetic roofing underlayment. These products are usually made from long-lasting polymers, which provide added strength and longevity. This type of underlayment is typically moisture-resistant, and when it’s installed correctly, it offers better protection from the weather compared to felt.
Synthetic roofing underlayment materials are not standardized, so different manufacturers may make their products differently, and therefore may have different levels of performance. Be sure to do your research and talk with a trusted contractor who can help guide you in selecting the right roofing materials to protect your home.
There are four main advantages to installing synthetic roof underlayment rather than felt. Compared to felt, synthetic roofing underlayment is:
• Fast to install
• Repels water
Synthetic underlayment has a tough and durable construction with an extremely high tear strength compared to felt. Synthetic roof underlayment is extremely durable. It typically doesn’t tear and is suitable for extended UV and moisture exposure in some cases, which is especially helpful if there’s a bit of lead time before your roof covering is installed. Synthetic underlayment also stands up to boot traffic, which is important when your roofing contractor is walking around on its surface as it’s being installed.
Synthetic roofing underlayment also tends to be: Lighter* – Up to four times lighter in some cases Fast to install – Because there is more material per roll compared to felt (synthetic roofing underlayment comes in wider and longer rolls), it results in fewer trips up the ladder for your roofers, saving them time and perhaps helping the job move along faster. For instance, a typical 2700 square-foot home might require three rolls of synthetic underlayment compared to 14 rolls of No.30 felt to cover the same area. Safe – Synthetic underlayment is also advantageous for worker safety — the surface of many synthetic roofing underlayment’s, including those offered by VillLux Roofing, features a variety of slip-resistant surfaces for enhanced walkability. It’s also usually well-marked with overlap guides and indicators of where fasteners should be placed, helping to improve consistency and accuracy during installation. Moisture-resistant – Where felt products tend to absorb water, synthetic roofing underlayment’s are built to repel water. This is important for homeowners concerned about moisture infiltration, especially if they plan to leave the underlayment exposed for a prolonged period. Because it’s made of plastic, synthetic underlayment is typically resistant to mold growth, a definite advantage over felt.
Many synthetics are competitively priced, but when compared to felt, the main drawback of synthetic roofing underlayment is the cost. The upfront investment in higher quality roofing materials, however, could save you money down the road. You can’t put a price on the peace of mind knowing that your roof is sufficiently protected from moisture.
Ice and Water Shield
Ice and water shield is a waterproof membrane used to protect your roof from ice and water damage. Its main purpose is to protect your roof decking if water gets underneath your roofing material (asphalt shingles, metal roof, etc.).
It’s crucial to have ice and water shield installed on/around certain areas of your roof, like roof valleys, around penetrations, and on roofs that have a 2/12, 3/12, or 4/12 pitch. Because of its importance, every roof needs to have it.
There’s also a code if you live in an area above the snow line in the US. This code requires ice and water shield along the edges of your roof to prevent leaking from ice damming after a heavy snow or ice storm.
If you live in an area that sees heavy snow, you’ll most likely have 2 rows of ice and water shield along your roof’s rakes and eaves per local codes.
The 3 types of ice and water shield
There are 3 types of ice and water shield: granular/sand surface, smooth, and high heat.
Granular or sand surface ice and water shield is used in roof valleys and is the thinnest of the 3 types. Even though it’s not as thick, it serves the same purpose and does the job well.
• Ice and water shield in a roof valley
Smooth surface ice and water shield is used on low slope roofs. This type fits the situation I mentioned in the first section when a roof has a 2/12, 3/12, or 4/12 pitch.
• Ice and water shield on a low slope roof
High heat ice and water shield is made of cotton-like fibers that’s used primarily on metal roofs. Because of the material it’s made of, it won't stick to metal as it expands and contracts. • High heat ice and water shield
This prevents the metal panels from destroying the integrity of the ice and water shield. While high heat ice and water shield is used on metal, it’s also used with premium roof systems (slate and cedar shake) to add extra protection.
Upgrading your roof with ice and water shield
Remember, you’ll most likely have the ice and water shield code I mentioned earlier if you live in an area that sees heavy snow. However, adding ice and water shield around the edges of the roof is also an upgrade you can add to your replacement.
You might think this isn’t important, and if you live somewhere that never sees snow, it’s not. But when we get heavy snow in the Middle Tennessee area, we can count on phone calls about water getting into homes.
The main culprit is always the same, ice damming. The truth is there’s nothing you can do to stop the leak except wait for the snow and ice to melt off your roof.
Ice and water shield on rakes and eaves
However, you can prevent leaks from ice damming by adding ice and water shield at the edges (rakes and eaves) of your roof that goes 2 feet past the interior walls of your home. Be aware; you can only add this upgrade when getting a roof replacement.
If you’re experiencing ice damming now or have experienced it before, add this upgrade to prevent it in the future. Just keep in mind that it will add to the cost of your new roof.
A typical all-perils homeowners insurance policy does cover your roof and the cost of replacing it if it gets damaged. That's the good news. But usually, you're covered only if the damage or destruction results from a sudden accident or act of nature. Problems that ensue from general wear and tear or from a roof that has exceeded its intended life span are not eligible for reimbursement because they fall under the general maintenance responsibility of the homeowner
• Most homeowners’ insurance policies cover roof replacement if the damage is the result of an act of nature or sudden accidental event.
• Most homeowners’ insurance policies won't pay to replace or repair a roof that's gradually deteriorating due to wear-and-tear or neglect.
• Roofs that are over 20 years old often have limited coverage, if any.
• To ensure approval of your claim, keep records of repairs, before-and-after photos, and reports from inspections. Notify your insurance company promptly when damage occurs.
Let us find out if your insurance covers your roofing by calling us today.